I’ve never surfed before. Have you?
It’s something I’ve had the desire to do since the first time I visited the ocean as a teenager. I did try skateboarding and snowboarding a time or two but I’m not sure if they’re similar to surfing or not…(let me know).
Surfing provides a really interesting metaphor for life.
I’m now in my 40’s but recently have been feeling more like a teenager. In fact, I feel better than I ever recall feeling as a child, teen or younger adult. In my memoir I’m working on publishing, I share about my journey to this place of exuberance. It certainly hasn’t been an easy road.I imagine it’s been a lot like surfing would be.
The fun part about life has become the art of learning to ride the wave.
I’m sure surfing isn’t easy and it’s not as straightforward as just hopping on a board. I know I wouldn’t even be able to stand up if I attempted it right now. In life, it feels like to me that I’m actually on the board now and I’m open and receptive to the entire experience. I enjoy the rush of movement in the energies of joy, exuberance and love. I also am beginning to recognize the subtle changes and pivots required along the way of the ride.
When I fall, instead of sinking as if I have an anvil attached to my ankle, I realize all I have attached is my board. Quite effortlessly, then, I get back on, wait patiently, enjoy the gentle ebbs and flows of the sea and catch the next killer wave when it presents itself.
What a great way to live! It’s gnarly, dude!
